Nettle Gnudi with Brown Butter and Summer Savory

Nettle season is pretty much over but the memory of these delicious little mouthfuls will be with me for a long time.  I look forward to next Spring but in the meantime, will try them with spinach, which is plentiful in the garden right now.  Or arugula.  Or a bunch of fresh green herbs.  Or kale!!  It’s  a whole new world.

I’ve wanted to try making gnocchi or gnudi for awhile, but it seemed like a lot of work and unfamiliar territory.  I’m really glad I got over it.  Gnudi (made with ricotta cheese) are supposed to be less work than gnocchi (made with potatoes).  I wouldn’t know, but I do know that this is a particularly simple recipe to follow that yields incredible results.

Pan frying these little nuggets in brown butter elevates them to art.  I used summer savory because we have a mound of it in the herb garden; it over-winters well in the ground and is one of the first herbs ready to use for spring.  It tastes like a combination of thyme and sage, but has a little bite that mellows out once it’s cooked.

Adapted from Fat of the Land

2 cups ricotta, strained overnight in cheesecloth
3/4 cup grated parmesan
2 eggs
1 cup blanched, squeezed, and chopped nettles
3/4 cup flour, plus more as needed and for rolling
1/8 tsp nutmeg, preferably freshly ground
Salt and pepper to taste
3 Tbsp butter
2 Tbsp fresh savory, or thyme, or sage, chopped
1.  Add ricotta to a large bowl with parmesan, eggs, nettles, nutmeg, and salt and pepper.  Mix well.

2.  Slowly fold in flour.  Mixture should be damp and tacky without sticking to hands; keep adding a little more flour at a time until you can form a wet ball in your hand without it sticking to your skin.

3.  Sprinkle work surface generously with flour. Take a handful of gnudi mixture and roll in flour until thoroughly coated.  Roll it out into a snake a half-inch to one-inch diameter thick, whatever your preference.

4.  Cut into little pillows and shape each one as desired.  Or go rustic and leave them alone.  Set aside on floured plate or cutting board.

5.  Boil gnudi in batches in salted water.  They’re done when they float to the surface, which should only take a minute.  Use a slotted spoon to remove from boiling water and place on wax paper on a cookie sheet.  Reserve until ready to pan fry.  Or eat them just like this, or with your favorite sauce.  Be careful though: It’s hard to stop popping them in your mouth once you start.

6.  Make brown butter:  Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat.  Cover with a splatter guard or mesh strainer to avoid a mess from popping (butter has some water content, so it sometimes pops as it browns).  Allow to cook undisturbed for 8-10 minutes, until it’s golden and smells like toffee.  Keep an eye on it so it doesn’t burn.

7.  When butter has browned, add gnudi and savory in batches, leaving plenty of room between each nugget.  Turn each one to brown all sides and let the savory crisp up a bit; it’s a texture and taste bomb.

8.  Top with grated parmesan and serve with a fresh garden salad for a delightful spring meal.

Leftover boiled gnudi can be refrigerated for a few days.


Nettle and Roasted Red Pepper Quiché

I have become so Pacific Northwest.  Special prize goes to the first person who can identify at least six quintessential PNW things about this post.

A few years ago, Dan suggested I try stinging nettles, a plant that rears up each spring and stings and irritates the skin of unsuspecting hikers and people generally not paying close enough attention.  He claimed it was delicious, sorta like spinach.  Having fallen victim to some of his not-so-successful food adventures follies in the past, the short answer was “Nope”.  He persisted, foraged some young leaves, and dried them out to make tea later.  I was still not convinced.  Every spring since then, it’s been “nettles this” and “nettles that”.  I know they’re loaded with iron and vitamin A, but my lizard brain had issues eating something that obviously doesn’t even want to be touched.

My resolve was finally broken on April Fools Day after we participated in the Eat. Run. Hope. 5k event for Fetal Hope, put on by Ethan Stowell and Eastside Memorial Fetal Medicine.  I’ll admit that when I registered, I was driven to do this 5k mostly for the food.  Canlis, Volunteer Park Cafe, The Walrus and the Carpenter, Terra Plata, SAM Taste, Revel, Skillet, Golden Beatle, Marche, Via Trubunali and of course Ethan Stowell and Co. were among the restaurants offering small bites after the run.  When April 1st arrived it was cold, windy and threatening to rain.  We were both in the thick of that terrible, lingering cold going around that killed most of my appetite and turned a “5k run” into a “5k walk as fast as possible without passing out”.  I was bummed that I couldn’t enjoy the food as thoroughly as I normally would have, but I was also graced with an epiphany:  The only thing that tasted really good at that point was a creamy nettle soup that someone (Revel? Golden Beatle? I wasn’t paying close enough attention in my post-walk haze) offered up.  It was perfection in a little compostable cup with a compostable spoon, topped with a few fried shallots and a small chive flower.  Creamy but not heavy, earthy yet green at the same time, simple, sublime.  Continue reading


Tilapia with Herbed Panko Topping

 

It’s been a little while.  A few weeks ago, I caught the really gnarly crud going around Seattle and was down for the count.  Then I healed up to about 90% and it was off to Coachella for four days of nearly unbearable heat, lots of great shows, and camping with dear friends.  Needless to say, I haven’t been in the kitchen much lately and therefore haven’t been posting.  But spring has definitely sprung and sown seeds have turned into seedlings with real sets of leaves, ready to be transplanted outside soon.  Things are warming up around here and with the arrival of spring comes my love of light, easy dinners in anticipation of a garden in full bloom and more vitamin D.

This tilapia is very simply prepared and makes your mouth sing at first bite.  Fresh thyme and parsley are a must here.  If you don’t have tilapia available, any white fish with semi-firm flesh will be just as delicious.  You can also substitute regular bread crumbs, or run some day-old bread through a food processor, if you don’t have panko available.

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Corn and Black Bean Salad

This simple salad is the perfect side dish for any Southwestern meal or Cinco de Mayo party.   It’s delicious served warm or cold and as a huge bonus, leftovers can be mixed with scrambled eggs and wrapped in a big flour tortilla for an awesome breakfast burrito the next morning.  Leave out the cheese for a vegan version; it won’t have the sharp bite that cotija contributes, but it will still be good.  The salad is also really yummy with tortilla chips, as a refreshingly different type of salsa.

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Potato Fennel Gratin

If there was ever a dish that makes you feel like you’re getting a big, chesty hug from your favorite aunt, this is it.  This gratin isn’t too heavy but it’s perfectly substantial, and can be paired equally well with lamb, salmon, or eggs for brunch.  Fennel is one of the most overlooked perennial veggies out there, and I’m not quite sure why.  It has a delicate anise flavor and is excellent raw in salad, roasted with root vegetables and garlic, or baked with potatoes and enveloped in a light béchamel wine sauce and Gruyère.

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Can’t Go Wrong Guacamole

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I see those packets of guacamole mix in stores and wonder why they even exist.  Dehydrated veggies and spice mix?  So unnecessary.  Guac is easy, a crowd pleaser, and pretty foolproof.  I’m even going to let you in on the secret to keep it from turning dark.

Avocados are ready when they yield to gentle pressure, much like a pear.  If you have hard avocados, put them in a paper bag and close it up for a day or two.  If your avocados are too soft/overripe, I can’t help you there–they won’t be much use.  Unless….hmmm….avocado bread, like banana bread?  Must explore.

If you’re an avocado aficionado, you can skip the next section.  If you’ve never cut into an avocado or want to know the quickest, easiest way to go about it, the next few pics are for you.

To get the avocado flesh out of the rind, carefully run a good butcher or santoku knife around the entire avocado lengthwise in the center:

Pull apart to split into 2 halves:

Put the half with the pit on a cutting board pit side up.  Aiming your knife at the pit, swiftly bring the blade down on the center of the pit:

Pick up your avocado half and twist the knife and avocado in opposite directions until the pit comes cleanly out of the avocado:

Bang the edge of your knife handle (right where it meets the blade) against the sink or edge of the trash bin to dislodge the pit.  Save one pit for the finished guac–if you let it hang out in your guac it will help prevent it from turning dark:

Scoop the avocado flesh out into a medium sized mixing bowl with a thin spatula; I love using those flat plastic sandwich spread spatulas for this, they scrape out every last bit and don’t tear up the skins.  I score the avocado into cubes with the spatula first:

And scraping it all out (please ignore the oranges in the bowl, I took these pictures for a Quinoa Orange salad I made, will post that soon):

This recipe makes enough for 8-10 people to enjoy as an appetizer with tortilla chips.

To the bowl, add:

Flesh of 2-3 medium to large avocados

Juice of one small lemon or medium lime (citric acid also prevents the guac from turning dark)

1 tsp garlic salt (this is the one case where garlic salt works better than fresh garlic, in my opinion)

1/4 cup finely chopped onion or shallot

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

1 Tbsp finely diced jalapeno or roasted green chile

1/2 cup chopped tomatoes (if you have a good chunky salsa on hand and no tomatoes, you can use the same amount of salsa instead)

Salt and pepper to taste

Mix everything in the bowl except the tomatoes.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  Add the tomatoes in last to avoid crushing them.  Let your guacamole rest in the fridge for at least an hour for flavors to blend.  Serve with tortilla chips.  And tequila.  Lots and lots of tequila.


To New Mexico con Amor: Pollo en Crema con Chile Verde

Surely if you’ve ever met anyone from New Mexico, they’ve told you all about the green and red chile.  Not chili.  Chili comes in a can.  Chile, with an “e”.  If you want to be really authentic about pronunciation:  Chee-leh.  And if you want to sound like a NM native when ordering at a restaurant, ask for “Christmas”–you’ll get both green and red chile sauce on your plate.  I recommend doing this if it’s your first time so you can decide for yourself if you prefer green or red.  I’m partial to green but I definitely get cravings for both.  And no joke–I actually felt like I had withdrawal symptoms when I moved to Seattle, something that many transplanted New Mexicans experience.  Have you ever visited New Mexico?  Notice how unusually laid-back and mellow the locals are?  Notice how slow the pace of life is and how everything can be put off until mañana?  The molecular makeup of chile must be similar to heroin or something.  But please, do not let that deter you from devouring NM chile if you’re ever provided the opportunity.

Since this is my first post dedicated to New Mexico, I’ll give you a bit of background:  Green and red chile come from the same plant.  Green ripens to make red and each has its own distinct taste.  Late summer is green chile roasting time, when practically the whole state swims in the distinctive odor of charred chile flesh, pounds of it tumbling around in giant steel mesh barrels over open fire at farms and grocery stores everywhere.  That smell is the unmistakable signal of fall approaching.  Green chile is used to make stews, salsas, enchiladas, burritos, mashed potatoes.  It’s the absolute best on cheeseburgers.  You know you’re from New Mexico when you find yourself wondering “how would this taste with green chile?” on a daily basis.  Fall and winter are traditionally for red chile, which are dried and hung in ristras until used for chile colorado, red chile enchiladas, posole and menudo (traditional Christmas stews).

If you want to learn more, click here for a great website about New Mexico chile, complete with instructional videos about how to roast the green and prepare the dried red chiles for the sauce that serves as the base for all of the above mentioned dishes.

My mom of course grows green chile in the summer and makes red chile ristras in the fall, most of which she gives to family as gifts:

 

Mom is also a big time chile smuggler, my interstate hook-up.  When we meet up with our family in the Phoenix area for Christmas, she usually brings her legendary tamales, frozen green chile that’s already been roasted and peeled, and sometimes a bag of ready-to-use, coarsely ground dried red chile.  How serious is all of this?  Well, last year my folks skipped the trip to AZ and decided to stay in NM, which presented the terrible conundrum of me not getting my annual stash.  No doubt feeling a little guilty about this, Mom offered to make the 4-hour drive (8 hours round trip) from Alamogordo to meet my brother “halfway” in Wilcox AZ since he was doing some work there.  The proposal was for him to get the stuff from her, keep it frozen somehow,  transport it back to Tempe to his own freezer, and then hand it off to me.  The only minor problems with this plan were: 1) My brother can’t keep track of his wallet and keys let alone bags of frozen green chile and tamales, 2) There was likely nowhere to keep everything frozen at his work site (he’s an electrician), and 3) I couldn’t justify her making an 8-hour drive which would likely cost more than just overnighting everything to me.  Refusing to be hoodwinked by FedEx, she didn’t understand the rationale of this argument, so I just told her to not worry about it this year.  However, once her mind is made up about something, she’ll find a way to do it; she ended up making a trip to AZ the week before Christmas to visit my great-aunt, and left everything safely in her freezer for me.  Crisis averted!

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Vegan African Sweet Potato Stew

I can’t believe it’s already March.  As we look forward to Spring by sowing seeds for lettuces, planting peas, starting leeks and basil, and planning another compost delivery, there are a few Fall/Winter things that are still looking beautiful in late-blooming Seattle.  Squashes and sweet potatoes are some of those things, and evenings are still chilly enough to enjoy a warming, hearty stew.  This particular recipe stands out because it’s vegan and very, very delicious–the flavors are beautifully balanced.  It also looks pretty nice served up in a squash bowl, something that my husband is fanatical about.  I’m not sure why, but when he sees round squash he instantly thinks “bowl”, and then proceeds to tell me that squash is so cool because it’s delicious, stores forever, and can be used as a container.  Who am I to deny him this small pleasure?

So here we are, in March, and I’m using my last opportunity to post a winter-centric dish until the weather becomes cold again, which I refuse to think about.  Enjoy, all you soup lovers!

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Peanut Butter Hazelnut Chocolate Toffee Cookies

If you’ve ever taken a spoon and dipped it into Nutella then peanut butter, and then eaten all of it straight from the spoon, you’ll understand what I was after when I created these cookies.  I was mighty pleased with the end result and might need to hide these from the hubby.  Who am I kidding?  I’ve already eaten 3 (just the ugly ones, I swear); I’ll really need to hide them from myself.

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temp

1 1/4 cup peanut butter, room temp (smooth or chunky, whatever your pleasure)

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

1 large egg

1 tsp vanilla extract

1/2 cup toasted and slightly crushed hazelnuts (whole hazelnuts can be found in the bulk food bins at natural foods stores)

1/2 cup chocolate toffee bar broken into chunks (I used a seasonal chocolate-toffee bar from Theo, but a Health or Skor bar would be fine).

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Oh So Versatile Tomato Base

I don’t know why the saying is “Easy as pie”.  Pie is not easy.  They should say “Easy as slow cooker tomato sauce”, because trust me, this is e-a-s-y.  And quite delicious.  And infinitely versatile.

As the sun graces us with its presence for a few more seconds each day, we’re easing into spring by starting some leeks and basil in the kitchen window, with lots more veggies to come soon:

I’m also in spring cleaning mode, so watch out freezer!

Last year was the first time I attempted to freeze tomatoes.  We grew over 100 pounds of gorgeous heirloom varietals so we lived in salad heaven for a while, canned a bunch, and gave away even more.  Towards the end of summer I was sick of canning (apparently it’s possible) and a friend told me I could freeze them to use for sauce later.  Eager to get them off the counter, I stashed them in the freezer where they’ve patiently waited for the past few months.  But spring is right around the corner, which turns into summer, which brings backyard bbq’s, fishing, and more recipes to experiment with.  It’s highly likely that summer will also bring an ice cream maker.  I need that freezer space back. Continue reading


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